Ladakh
A high, cold desert of whitewashed monasteries, turquoise lakes and road passes above 5,000 metres.
About Ladakh
Ladakh is a high, cold desert north of the Great Himalaya, where whitewashed gompas sit on bare ridges, turquoise lakes fill the valleys and the road passes climb above 5,000 metres.
Tibetan Buddhist culture is strong here, from the morning prayers at Thiksey to the masked dances at Hemis, and the skies at Hanle are among the darkest in India.
When to go
Best from May to September.
- January: off season
- February: off season
- March: off season
- April: good
- May: best
- June: best
- July: best
- August: best
- September: best
- October: good
- November: off season
- December: off season
Journeys in Ladakh
Before you go
- Getting there
- Fly to Leh from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Srinagar or Jammu. By road, Leh is about 434 km from Srinagar over Zoji La and about 428 km from Manali through the Atal Tunnel, with both roads open roughly from June to October.
- Permits
- Indian citizens no longer need an Inner Line Permit, but everyone pays the LAHDC environment and wildlife fee. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri. We arrange both.
- What to eat
- Thukpa and skyu (hand-made pasta stew), momos, butter tea, apricot jam and sea-buckthorn juice.
- Rest for 24 to 48 hours after flying in to Leh. It is the single most important thing you can do.
- Only postpaid mobile connections from outside Jammu & Kashmir and Ladakh work here.
- ATMs work in Leh but are scarce in Nubra and absent at Pangong and Hanle.
- Nights are cold even in summer, so pack a down jacket.
Questions about Ladakh
When is the best time to visit Ladakh?
June to September for road trips. May and early June still have snow on the passes, and September has golden light and fewer crowds.
How do I avoid altitude sickness in Ladakh?
Rest completely for the first day in Leh, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol for 48 hours and gain height slowly. Speak to your doctor about acetazolamide before you travel.
Is Ladakh good for families?
Yes, on a gentle road trip with three nights in Leh before the high passes. Very young children should not sleep at 4,000 metres or above.